
Kay Rader
Contributed by: Paul A. Rader & Kay Rader, General and Commissioner of the Salvation Army (Ret.), and missionaries to Korea for 22 years. Kay is a member of CFK’s Board of Directors.
Returning after four years our impression is that citizens of Pyongyang, at least, are somewhat better off. They appear to be better dressed, there are more vehicles on the road, more cars and bicycles. Though broad boulevards are sometimes eerily bereft of traffic, at other times there is considerable movement. We had a hard time getting a left turn into the road to our hotel on several occasions.
Having said that, our initial impression as we drove to the hotel from the airport, and the image still in our minds and hearts even now, is the darkness. Still no street lamps. Still no lights in the windows of high rise apartments, no store windows aglow with displays, no lights on bicycles, no flashlights. We couldn’t help noticing how the wide-range beams of the head lights on the new CFK van were providing a path of light for pedestrians ofPyongyangas they stumbled along the footpaths or competed with traffic, trudging forward in the darkness.
Darkness is one of the stark realities of life inNorth Korea. One Director told us they get electricity two hours a day. In this regard, four years have made little difference. Solar panels were among the most frequent requests from the directors. MOPH officer, Mr. Ri ChilNam’s demonstration of the wind-up ‘flash-light’ included in the doctors’ bags seemed a favorite attraction to doctors, nurses and other staff members at the institutions we visited. They gathered round him like eager children to watch as he turned the lever, creating a bright light. With every turn of the handle they leaned in more closely not to miss it when it happened. These dear people are deprived of this basic commodity. Nevertheless, the statues of the Great Leader are bathed in it.
Façade is everywhere evident. Pyongyangitself is a façade. Even in the city, reasonably attractive properties that may line the main streets are rarely representative of the crumbling and shabby reality that lies behind them – inPyongyang, or elsewhere.
Outside of Pyongyang the situation is grimmer. True, there are more bicycles on the road, more machinery in the fields – though plowing with oxen seems to be the norm. We noticed more color in the clothing but this, too, seems only a façade for the crowds on the roads still carry heavy burdens, push bicycles up steep inclines, and always they are overloaded to the breaking point.
In our travels across over 2,000 miles of North Korean countryside far from the capital city’s perimeters we had opportunity to observe the daily realities of life. While food is scarce, at least in the provinces we visited (North andSouth Hwanghae) we saw little evidence of severe starvation levels of need. Even so, the sight of people (often women and/or children) foraging for food in harvested fields or on the denuded hillsides tells its own story. Some food is distributed by the government to the citizenry, though it is not clear how consistently or how equitably. Generally speaking, when asked how much of the protein patients receive comes from CFK, the directors of the homes and hospitals said, “About 60-70%.” The vinyl houses are among the most appreciated contributions of CFK and may themselves provide 30% or more of the food for the institutions. Heavy rains in the spring and early summer of this year washed out seed and harmed the harvest so that production was apparently down in the flood affected areas.
One director was so appreciative of the emollients given to aid in the quality of crop production, he suddenly reached behind his desk and brought forth from a drawer a “bouquet” of soy bean shoots, complete with pods, providing a moment of levity for our confirmation team.
Four years ago we thought that the proliferation of political banners glorifying the Great Leader and the ‘Marshall’ or ‘Great Military Leader,’ Kim Jong Il, could not be more ubiquitous. How silly of us! There seems to be almost a desperate effort to force their messages on the attention of the people. We counted fourteen such banners or monuments within the grounds of the National TB Hospital alone, many of which seem to have materialized since the opening of the TB Reference Lab. They are probably counterproductive, quietly resented by some and ignored by most. For the first time we saw three stone markers erected in many prominent places representing Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and Kim Jong-un. We wondered if this were not perhaps preliminary to the April celebrations of the 100th anniversary of the birth of the great leader, an opportunity to celebrate the Kim family and further consolidate Kim Jong-un as the successor to his father.
In the face of this seemingly stepped up political activity, we were given more freedom to move about than in the past – in particular the freedom to venture unaccompanied down to the Potong River walkway near the hotel, never challenged about taking photos, although from past experience we tried to act with discretion in this regard. We met an Egyptian man on the elevator in the hotel who told us they have now put 700,000 cell phones into the hands of North Koreans, no international communication, of course. Intranet is available, albeit with serious limitations, but still no Internet and still no letters may be posted toSouth Korea.
Nevertheless, our counterparts from MOPH seemed quite willing to be identified with CFK. One North Korean official with us donned the outfit given him by CFK with visible logo. He even stepped outside the van to confer with the checkpoint guards, wearing the outfit, a Christian cross, not to mention the word, ‘Christian’ displayed on the shirt.
We were encouraged with the bold witness at theChilGolChurchworship service of a professor at PUST who had come fromHong Kongto the faculty. He informed us there are 40 professors who have come from abroad. Obviously some (all?) of these are committed Christians. What will the future of PUST be? How far will the regime allow freedom for Christian presence and witness among the faculty?
The two Protestant churches are an anomaly. Chilgol tends to feel more authentic than Pongsu where the church has been rebuilt into an impressive facility with a ‘seminary’ attached. The number of congregants, however, does not seem to have increased with the enlargement of the auditorium. There are no children, or young people. One wonders if there are ever any baptisms, weddings or funerals in which the church participates, how congregations are permitted or chosen to attend is uncertain. Active evangelism is out of the question. Still, the Bible is read, hymns are sung and earnest prayers are offered, evoking hearty ‘amens’ at the appropriate points. One can only be grateful that this witness, such as it is, is permitted, while praying for the day when there will be freedom of worship once more, the Gospel freely and fully proclaimed.
We had numbers of opportunities to converse with our counterparts. Paul was asked to bring greetings at both Chilgol and Ponsu. His comments about the work of CFK were most warmly received by the congregants, the pastor reiterating what he had said and asking them to support CFK with their prayers.
The introduction of the donor lists afforded opportunity to present the motivation for CFK’s ministries, the presentation ending with words from Scripture, “We love because He first loved us.” Our entourage seemed quite willing to accept prayer before meals in the Korean language. There was also an opportunity to dedicate the new van purchased in honor of Dr. Dwight Linton, his son, Sam, with us paying tribute to his father. Again there was prayer in the presence, not only of our counterparts, but nurses, doctors, lab technicians from the National Lab and National TB Hospital, and MoPH colleagues.
We were given much greater access to patients who responded with enthusiasm and appreciation, sometimes reaching out to us with their hands, leaning their heads onto our shoulders as we took photos, thanking us effusively for sending medicine and nodding approval and appreciation when told we will be thinking of them and praying for them.
We had a remarkable team in Drs. Ed Desmond and Jim McLaughlin, Sam Linton, Chris Rice, Ron Ward, Dr. Eugene Oh, Dr. Sam So and Heidi. The devotional times were greatly enriched by interaction and the fellowship of prayer.
There were some tensions growing out of misunderstandings and misinformation toward the end of the visit, but all seemed to be somewhat resolved in answer to prayer. In the wrap-up meeting on the last day, several of the NK counterparts seemed on edge. Dr. Sam So relieved the tension with what seemed to them a compliment. Speaking diplomatically, he said, “I have never visited a country that has twelve hospitals and about 200 rest homes dedicated to hepatitis care alone.” They were so pleased. We were made to understand by their immediate response that this was the idea of the Great Leader. All’s well that ends well!
One is impressed that there are many good and well-intentioned people in the DPRK, genuinely concerned for the welfare of those they serve and genuinely grateful for CFK help. One Director took our hands as we were leaving and said, “You have suffered much to come here,” meaning that he realized the difficulty for someone our age to travel so far. He knew the effort involved. They live and function in an environment of uncertainty, suspicion, fear and vulnerability into which it is impossible for us to enter fully. We pray for them.
We cannot afford to be naïve about the reality that prevails in what is an oppressive and often brutal regime. The DPRK ranks at the top of nations persecuting and seeking to suppress the Christian witness. Thousands of believers have been imprisoned and many martyred for their faith. Still, can we not assume that there are Obadias (I Kings 18), Esthers, Daniels, Josephs and Nehemiahs even within the government and the system of the DPRK who are believers or ‘God fearers’ struggling to act with conscientiousness and character and who may be prepared when the time comes to lay down their lives for their faith?
In many ways the situation is as opaque to us and to the world as ever. We cannot know what the future will hold. We can know that God is not indifferent to the fervent prayers of intercessors for this land all around the world. We come away grateful for the privilege of expressing the love of Christ in the service ministries of Christian Friends of Korea, always with the prayer in our hearts that somehow the seeds of love sown will one day bear fruit in causing those we serve to look to the God who moves us to respond to their need with compassion and practical action.
The uniqueness of the approach of Christian Friends lies not only in the quality of the assistance provided, the accountability and integrity, the professional and technical expertise leveraged, and the immediate and practical value of the food and meds and equipment, but in our presence to those we serve in the name and spirit of Christ. We are there for Jesus’ sake. Simply being physically present to those we serve has important value and conveys what the gifts and expertise alone cannot and bears its own witness.
We watched as an official from the local government office peeled an apple and offered it to Heidi. An incredible cookout on the beach below one of the rest homes appeared out of nowhere, providing an atmosphere of unprecedented camaraderie and friendship.
In a meeting with the World Health Organization (WHO) representative to the DPRK, Ethiopian, Dr. Yonai Tegegn, said, “Visiting in the country on road trips, I have seen the marks of CFK work and have been greatly impressed. You are always there and making a difference. We are sincerely thankful for what you do. Keep it up! We do it for the men and women to whom we give hope for a better life. There are ups and downs but we are committed to this country’s welfare like a marriage, for ‘better or for worse,’ but what it comes down to is the faces of the little children, and their mothers.”
We long to be able to share the truth of the Gospel in words, knowing that faith comes by hearing and hearing by the Word. But until that day we are there in love and hope.
The Psalmist tells us “Blessed are those who consider the helpless. The Eternal will stay near them, leading them to safety, in times of bitter struggle.” (The Voice) Who more helpless than the people ofNorth Korea? We trust Him to stay near those with whom we work, our counterparts, to lead them to safety, to spare them bitter struggle. We continue to hold to our belief in the Cross. One of my favorite authors, Oswald Chambers writes, “We get back to the bedrock of the Cross of Christ. . .from the Bible point of view an infinitesimal thing – yet of more importance than all the empires of the world.”
The particular petitions of the Lord’s Prayer never seemed so relevant and powerful as they did to me as we shared them together in our devotional times on the 9th floor of Potong Kang Hotel: ‘Hallowed be thy Name!’ ‘Thy Kingdom come on earth [this place of poverty and oppression] as it is in heaven.’ ‘Give us [give them their] daily bread!’ ‘Forgive us our sins [our indifference, our self-centeredness, our greed] as we forgive everyone who sins against us.’ ‘Lead us not into temptation and deliver us [and deliver them] from the evil one.’ For in the face of all that would seem to deny it, ‘Yours is the Kingdom, the Power and the Glory’ now and forever. So be it, Father! Amen.